Black Quail Estate: In Search of Winter Gold

Tucked into the rolling hills above the Kawarau Gorge, where the land folds into itself in soft, golden curves, is a hidden pocket of Central Otago. At first glance, Black Quail Estate is quiet, even restrained, but as we pull into the driveway, it is immediately clear this is a place shaped by thoughtful hands. Rod and Mirani Keiller’s home is an artwork in itself, blending effortlessly into the landscape. Earth-toned, elegant, and perched to overlook the river far below, it is the kind of space that invites stillness and attention. During the winter months from May through August, this stillness yields something truly special. Périgord black truffles are harvested just beneath the hazelnut grove, and we are fortunate to receive them straight from Black Quail’s soil to the kitchen at Minaret Station. Served fresh and delicately shaved over our seasonal dishes, they add a rich, earthy depth that speaks of place, patience, and care.

We’ve come for truffles. And the one who leads the way isn’t Rod or Mirani — it’s Nico.

A Lagotto Romagnolo with a keen nose and calm determination, Nico sets off through the hazelnut grove with the confidence of someone who knows exactly what they’re looking for. The Périgord black truffle — Tuber melanosporum — grows just below the surface during the winter months, in delicate symbiosis with the roots of its host. The hazelnut trees provide carbohydrates and shelter; the truffles, in turn, deliver essential nutrients. From above ground, the exchange is invisible. Undetectable by sight, scent, or sound — at least to us.

But not to Nico.

He moves slowly, nose to soil, weaving between the rows. And then, a signal: one soft paw tap. Then another. Rod is already kneeling, digging tool in hand. With practiced care, he brushes away the soil until the truffle’s dark, textured surface appears — the fruit of patience, partnership, and trust.

The truffle is passed from hand to hand, its perfume slowly blooming in the cold morning air. Nico waits expectantly, and Rod doesn’t disappoint — a small piece of carrot offered as quiet thanks for another successful find.

Before Nico, there was Rissa — also a Lagotto Romagnolo, who worked the grove for over a decade. She passed away in 2019, leaving behind a legacy of faithful work and gentle companionship. Nico now continues that legacy, not only at Black Quail but at neighbouring farms across the region. There’s something special about watching him work — nose down, tuned in, utterly absorbed in the task.

With a few truffles in hand, we follow Rod and Mirani back toward the house. But first, a stop: Black Quail’s small, modern cellar door, discreetly tucked into the hillside. Inside, we’re surrounded by bottles — their clean labels lined with the silhouette of the black quail. Mirani welcomes us in with unmistakable warmth, pulling a 2020 Pinot Noir from the shelf and easing the cork from the bottle.

She pours generously. The glasses warm between our hands, the wine opens slowly — bright red fruit, a hint of spice, something deeper beneath. We sip, compare notes, and listen as Connor continues the conversation, sharing more about the truffles we’d just unearthed.

The room is soft with conversation now, the perfume of truffle still clinging to the air. Outside, the afternoon light is beginning to stretch. Inside, it’s all warmth, generosity, and the simple pleasure of good wine shared with good company.

At Black Quail Estate, luxury is found in the quietest of moments: a gentle paw tap, a glint of earth beneath the trees, the first swirl of Pinot in the glass. And always, in the calm certainty of a dog who knows exactly where to look.